HOLD THE WHITE PLEASE

QUESTION:

Hi Mary! My biggest concern is anti-aging, and I feel like the best thing to do is block your skin from sun damage. I wear sunblock every day, but some of the products that contain zinc or titanium dioxide make you look white. Is there a product you recommend or an ingredient to look for that offers maximum protection, without really making you look pasty white? Also, does a low spf number, like an 8 or 15 mean anything at all?

-Robin



ANSWER:

Dear Robin,

You are absolutely correct that the best anti-aging strategy is to be aware of and limit sun exposure. Exposure to the sun, particularly UVA rays, is the cause of solar aging, and by that I mean wrinkles, sunspots, skin thinning, loss of elasticity, etc. The best way to protect against the sun’s damaging rays is to every day use a high quality sunscreen that provides BOTH UVA AND UVB protection.

Most people are familiar with SPF (Sun Protection Factor), which provides information about a product’s level of UVB protection, which will keep your skin from burning.

Values over SPF 30 are meaningless.

I recommend using a sunscreen with an SPF 15.
Even more important is a sunscreen’s UVA coverage since these penetrating rays remain constant all day.

SCIENTIFIC STUFF:
Look at the list of the product’s active ingredients. The product must contain one of the three FDA approved ingredients for UVA protection: zinc, titanium, or avobenzone, the latter of which is most effective without creating the “pasty white” look.

But there’s more to the story. Avobenzone, for example, breaks down in sunlight so it must be stabilized to be effective against UVA rays. Conversely, as zinc and titanium are ground up or micronized to make them less white or gunky, some UVA protection is lost in the process. There are, however, wide variations in the quality of ingredients used and the skill of the formulators in product development.

Currently, the FDA is currently considering implementing a UVA rating system and requiring this value to be place on labels in addition to SPF values. Until this is mandated, consumers need to dig deeper and ask about a product's critical wavelength.

Critical wavelength is one of two UVA rating systems and is widely used by formulators in product development. The FDA considers any product with a critical wavelength over 370nm to provide excellent UVA protection.

Use an SPF30 when deliberately going out in the sun (skiing, snowboarding, golf, sailing). For reference, an SPF15 will allow for two (2) hours in sunlight before you will begin to burn; an SPF30 allowing for four (4) hours. The SPF test loses some of its predictive value for SPFs over 30-33, so an SPF45, SPF55 and higher are only marginally more protective than a SPF30. Reapplication every two (2) hours after sweating, swimming, etc. is more effective than using an SPF over 30.

For everyday use, in addition to an SPF 15, use a product with a critical wavelength of 370nm or greater for the best possible protection. Make it part of your daily routine for healthier and younger looking skin.